Tuesday, January 26, 2010
Haute Couture & Haute Joaillerie: Spring/Summer 2010

 

The Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2010 shows commenced this past Sunday the 24th in Paris with Josephus Thimister and will end on Wednesday the 27th with Valentino. The French term Haute Couture literally means "high sewing" and refers to custom-made clothing created using the highest quality fabrics and sewn with considerable attention to detail. The bespoke clothing often features very time-consuming embellishments done by hand.

Pierre Balmain Haute Couture, 1955. (image via the Victoria & Albert Museum)


Dior seamstress (image via designmuseum.org)


Christian Dior Haute Couture, 1953. (image via designmuseum.org)


Christian Dior sketching (image via designmuseum.org)


The historically Parisian tradition of Haute Couture is a tradition that is highly guarded by the French. According to French law originating in 1945, to be considered a legitimate House of Haute Couture, designers must meet a number of criteria including designing made-to-order for private clients with one or more fittings, having an atelier (workshop) in Paris with a minimum of 15 full-time employees, and presenting a collection twice a year to the Paris press with at least 35 exits consisting of both daytime and evening looks.



Hubert de Givenchy "Les Muguets" ("Lily of the Valley") Haute Couture, 1955. (images via the Victoria & Albert Museum)


To be accepted as a Haute Couture House and to be invited to present during the Haute Couture shows in Paris is regarded as the most exclusive accolade a clothier can receive in the world of fashion.

The bespoke nature, intricate details and creative whimsy that Haute Couture triumphs have always fascinated me. Consequently, I was elated to hear that Haute Joaillerie Houses would be invited for the first time to show during Paris couture week!


(image via the Victoria & Albert Museum)


The companies, whose designs represent the pentacle of luxury, craftsmanship and creativity within the jewelry world, will show their Haute Joaillerie exclusively on January 28th. The lucky Haute Joaillerie invitees include Boucheron, Chanel Joaillerie, Chaumet, Mellerio Dits Meller and Van Cleef & Arpels. The Haute Joaillerie will no doubt be nothing short of spectacular and I'm anxiously awaiting the first photographs of these jewels to appear!

xxKP

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Thursday, January 7, 2010
It's All Just a Little Bit of History Repeating: Bows

 

My affinity for bows can very easily be traced back to my childhood, as documented through copious amounts of somewhat embarrassing family videos and photographs. As an embellishment on a pair of shoes, a party dress or a hair accessory, bows were consistently a part of my early ensembles. Over the years my affection for this particular adornment has endured - an appreciation that proved advantageous during my buying days at the historically bow-friendly fashion house, Yves Saint Laurent.


THEN: Yves Saint Laurent, Evening dress of silk, plastic, feathers & glass, 1967.
(image via The Costume Institute)


NOW: Yves Saint Laurent, Long sleeve short dress with bows at bib, Spring 2010.
(image via Style.com)


Consequently, I was pleased to see bows appear in a number of Spring 2010 shows this past fall - including Valentino, Monique Lhullier and Prabal Gurung - in both ready-to-wear and accessories categories. While the choice of bows was not particularly novel for Valentino, the execution was flawless and the léger fabric was feminine.


Valentino, Spring 2010. (images via Style.com)


Monique Lhullier, Spring 2010. (images via Style.com)


Prabal Gurung, Spring 2010. (images via Style.com)


The fascination with bows continued in the accessories category at Nina Ricci and yes, Valentino.

Nina Ricci, Black Lace bootie with back bow, Spring 2010.
(image via The Rosenrot.)


Here are two of my absolute FAVORITE Spring 2010 shoes from Valentino - a purchase that I'm trying to justify by the fact that both of these beauties are essentially season-less - don't you agree?!



Valentino, Black Peep toe cut-out bootie with side bow, Spring 2010.
(Available on pre-order at Bergdorf Goodman.)



Valentino, Black and Cream Satin bow sandal, Spring 2010.
(Available at Net-a-Porter.com)

Standing the fashion test of time, bows will reemerge (or will remain for some of us!) this Spring along with lady-like sheer fabrics and silhouettes.

xxKP

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